2019 Henri Bourgeois Sancerre d'Antan

In Sancerre, flint soils are in the minority and typically give wines that are not as tender as those on chalk-based vineyards. This provides an upright structure, meaning they are usually last in a lineup at a winery. And yet, while the 2019 Sancerre Cuvée d'Antan is very direct, with its firm line on the finish, it's still full-bodied, silky-smooth and amazingly rich. It's fermented entirely in older oak barrels and spends a year on lees, which certainly has something to do with its delectable texture. There's the merest hint of smokiness on the finish too.

Creamy, mineral and pretty varietal at the same time, mixing brioche with gooseberries, lime and flint. Flavorful on the palate with a medium to full body, all very linear. Fresh and a tad saline followed by a lengthy, pure finish.