2017 G.D. Vajra Kyé

The 2017 Langhe Freisa Kyé is polished, understated and supremely beautiful. Over the last few years, the Vajras have tamed some of the rusticity of Freisa, but there is still plenty of varietal character here. All the elements are very well balanced. Wild cherry, plum, spice, licorice, tobacco, grilled herbs and coffee abound. I would give the 2017 a year or two in bottle, as there is still a bit of edginess to the tannin. Then again, that is Freisa, when it is made with this level of ambition.

This wine has developed its own cult following over the years. Named after a local dialectal expression for "who is it," the 2017 Langhe Freisa Kyè is super intense in this hot vintage. The wine draws upon those vintage conditions to present an extra dark appearance, with aromas of Morello cherry, dried blackberry and spice. I always get a subtle note of black pepper with the popular Freisa grape. The mouthfeel is rich, and you can really sink your teeth into this cheerful and unusual red from Piedmont. 6,000 bottles are hitting the market now.